Showing posts with label Paint. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paint. Show all posts

Friday, May 31, 2019

Elevator and Aft Fuselage Prime May 28

RV14 Build May 28

Elevator and Aft Fuselage Prime


Started the day by working 1 more piece of the rear fuselage to prime so when the time comes I will have all the parts I need to rivet for this small rear bulkhead.


Next I moved on to prepping the skins for primer. The plans have to leave to area where the foam wedges bond to the skin with Pro-Seal unprimed so, I measured, marked, and taped off these areas on both elevator top and bottom skins as well as the trim tab skins.


Since the new primer Im using needs to cure for 30 mins before spraying I mixed up a batch that I thought would be enough to prime everything before I start laying out the paint booth. I was using my larger paint gun today and it turns out that I use ALOT more paint with this gun than the little detail gun I used the other day. I ended up needing 3X this amount of primer to do all the parts.

Most of the parts laid out in the booth. This was a mistake because I get overspray on the parts Im not currently working. I need to spray what I can let it cure move the parts out and repeat. I should get a part drying rack set up so that I have a place to put parts why they cure.



2 of the parts I had to prime I noticed in the plans that they still needed to be final drilled, so i did this real quick while I was waiting for the last batch of primer to set up.

Finished parts. Overall Im very happy with the result. Im still not a great painter, uneven and surprisingly a little to light in some spots more than heavy.



Elevator Prime 6.0 Hours, Rear Fuselage Prime 3.0 hours



Monday, May 27, 2019

Elevator and Aft Fuselage Paint Prep May 27

RV14 Build May 27

Paint Prep


Spent the day cleaning metal to prep for priming tomorrow. Same process: Eco-Etch soak 1-3mins, scuff with scotch-brite, rinse well, dry, clean with alcohol or MEK and prime.

Lots of work ahead of me.

Making progress.

All the skins are done!

I decided that I want to try and prime the skins in a vertical orientation, maybe is will help my painting skills?


Finally done for the day!

having the table in the entry way instead of the storage rack was nice. So far I like the move I made for the shop. It gave me workable space even when the paint booth is down and taking up most of the shop.

Paint Prep Elevator 5.0 Hours, Paint Prep Rear Fuselage 2.0 Hours

Elevator May 23 & 24

May 20

Elevator

Paint - New Priming Method

My primer has shown up!! I also ordered some mixing-mate mixers and lid seals just to make my life easier.


Time to start the tedious process of cleaning metal to prep for primer.

New Primer Steps that Im going to use.
My new process is going to be soak with Eko-Etch for 1-3 mins at a 1:2 diluted mixture and and scuff to clean with the Scoth-Brite pads, Rinse well with water, let the parts dry, wipe off with 91% rubbing alcohol or MEK to clean just before priming.



Primer with the mixing-mates on them.

The primer is mixed 1:1. I wasn't sure how much I was going to need to do all the interior components of 1 elevator so I started with the smallest amount and it was just Barely enough.

I picked up the little airbrush gun that I saw on someones else blog that they liked for priming small parts. I used it for  this whole batch and it worked great for the smaller pieces, but should have used my paint gun for the larger ones. I just didn't want to have to clean both.


All suited up, I look like Im in a chemical suit! probably overkill but I don't to get the primer on my clothes and I definitely don't want to breath it in.



Primer turned out awesome, Im not sure if its any tougher than what I was using have testing it, but it goes on at a recommended 1-1.3mils thickness vs 3mils so that have to save some weight. The chemical resistance is far better that the previous stuff.

I decided to move the storage racks in the shops next to each other and open up the front space so it is usable. Not sure how I feel about it, we'll see how functional it is,


Elevator 7.5 Hours

Thursday, May 16, 2019

Elevator May 14 and 15

May 14 and 15

Elevator

More new toys! I decided Im going to try the AKZO Primer, but I was concerned with the chemicals and using disposable filters. I tried to read the MSDS sheet and the filter documents to see if they would work, and i "think" they would have but I didn't want to risk it and never really needed a reason to buy new tools. I found an new Allegro ambient air system on ebay, made an offer and it was accepted!







With the mock-up complete it was time to start deburring!! Yeah.....not. But it needs done. So lots of sanding. I use the Scotch-brite wheel whenever possible and lots of 320 and 240 grit emery cloth. Ill supplement with the die grinder and 3m red bad when I need to work a small space that I want to be more aggressive on.




All the edges are done! Except the skins, now time to counter sink the trailing edge piece. The plans have you modify a #40 CS bit, but I have one from Cleveland tools as well as there trailing edge jig and this made the job super easy.




Now all I need to do is debur the skin edges and the left elevator will be ready to prep from primer. Im thinking now to do 1 elevator at a time to keep the parts separated when it comes to priming. I haven't ordered the primer yet, being a Hazmat I want to make sure Im home when its delivered, so Ill probably prep debur the right elevator over the next week while Im waiting.

Elevator 8.0 Hours




Monday, December 24, 2018

Rudder


The plans say to final drill the rudder trailing edges perpendicular to the chord line of the trailing edge, but countersink them parallel to the angle on the trailing edge. I used the Trailing Edge JIG  from Cleveland tool and the drill press to drill perpendicular to the chord. This picture shows the scrap piece of the trailing edge in the Jig so I could practice and see how everything worked.

I then clekoed together the rudder so I could final drill the rudder skins using the trailing edge piece as a template.

After drilling a few of the holes I looked at the reverse side skins and noticed the holes where getting slightly enlarged. After thinking about it I decided to disassemble everything and use the #40 Reamer to final drill the skins and then deburr them. 


I bought a speed deburring tool to make the deburring go faster, it works great on all the big pieces. Since the rudder skins are so thin I decided to deburr them by spinning the bit in my hand so not over do it.


After I finished deburring all the pieces I set to work prepping for paint. This was the same process that I used on the VS. Clean, acid etch and scuff, clean, let dry. Bill stopped by to help out with this.



This time I decided to Dimple before priming to see how that worked with the final assembly, I also went with the 2 part primer.

The 2 part primer was different. Part A was REALLY thick and chunky. I spent probably an hour on this day mixing and trying to break up the paint chunks and get everything to a smoother texture. I did add some distilled water, that seemed to help a ton. I wasn't able to get everything mixed to a perfect consistency, but it was close enough where I felt safe especially since I was going to pour it through a paint filter.

The Part A and Part B diluted 3/4 parts with distilled water, When I poured it through the filter into my paint gun I still had lots of chunks of paint. I picked up a paint mixer that I can put in the drill press and just let it mix paint for a few hours next time before I use the paint.


Got back into the paint booth! Before I primed I cleaned all the metal 1 last time with Rubbing Alcohol to remove and water residue or accidental hand marks. I try to not touch the parts after paint prep without gloves on, but my memory slips :) 

The 2 part primer sprayed a little better and didn't have as much overspray it seemed. I definitely need work on my painting skills. My overlaps and speed aren't even and that shows in the final product. i also way overloaded the spraying tray and was getting overspray on pieces I wasn't trying to, also the pieces were so small and light the paint gun would blow them around and they would hit each other and mess up the finish. Lots of lessons learned this time around. 1. Mix the paint a few days before spraying to make sure its ready 2. Prime fewer pieces at a time 3. When spraying small pieces hold them in your hand and spray half, when it drys a bit spray the other half.



Started to assemble the Rudder! Started with the front spar and ribs. I really wanted my pneumatic squeezer to set the rivets, but I just can't get it to set the larger 1/8" rivets???! Another call to Cleveland Tools might be needed. Before I started to rivet I countersunk the trailing edge piece, I used the Jig again and it worked great.


Next I started to rivet the rear spar and ribs together. I need more practice still riveting, I had to drill a few out. Finally I realized trying to hold the pieces, rivet gun, and bucking bar at the same time was stupid and started to clamp the pieces in my Vise. I started with the reenforcing brackets then worked on the bottom assembly.




Im very happy I realized I can use the Vise to hold the parts for riveting, BBBUUUUUTTTT I'm not happy that I bought the cheapest vise and on the bottom side it has strange parts of the cast metal that hit my parts and shipped the primer off! Well, yet another learning experience in the books I guess. I used the single part primer to touch up the metal. It looks bad, but its internal and the main purpose it corrosion protection so it works. I read on somewhere "You don't get the airplane you want, You get the airplane you built" this is definitely proving to be true!
The finished rear spar and ribs. I never looks like much for the amount of work it takes, but progress! Am i right?



Today I started to put the stiffeners on the rudder skin....Did not go well, Right from the start I riveted 3 rivets to the skin without the stiffener in place???! I was in way to big of a hurry and my mind was not with me I guess. This should have been a sign to pack it in for the day and head home, because it was not the last of my mistakes. this is what I should have did.



I even prepped those pictures for the blog before I did this instead. Notice these 3 rivets that are done, but the lack of stiffener :( I drilled these out and the holes were a little deformed, but I re-dimpled and Im gonna go with it. I might rebuild the Rudder in the future if I keep making mistakes.


 This is what it should look like to back rivet. Put the plate on the table with the flush rivets into the skin and put a piece of tape on them to hold them in place. Flip the skin over and hit rivets with rivet gun.


This is where my second and third mistake happened. My back riveting plate is only so big, I got to one of the rivet that wasn't backed by the plate and hit it with the rivet gun. The EXTREMELY thin sheet metal of the rudder doesn't take kindly to that. Not only that, but I did it twice...Slow learner here. The edge of the back plate made a seam in the skin in both places. I gonna leave it for now, I think its something I work with high build primer in the future, or rebuild the rudder once my skills are better at the end of the project.



Finally got past all my struggles and finished one rudder skin.


I wanted to keep working, but it's Christmas Eve and I need to get ready for Church! Hopefully I can finish the Rudder this year.

Rudder 19.75 Hours






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