FWF 43 Engine Installation: Engine DIY Dehydrator

RV14 Build March/April 21

Engine Installation

Now that I have to rebuild my wings, I don't want the motor to have corrosion issues so I'm doing a few things to protect it over the next several months, once mt ACF-50 handheld applicator gets here i'll fog the cylinders, but for now I pulled the top plugs and installed rechargeable dehydrator plugs.

Then a made a forced air dehydrator. I bought an airtight 16 cup container, 6lbs or reusable desiccant beads, a 40gallon fish tank pump, some tubing, inline filter, and cheesecloth bag. The pump will recirculate air once i have exhaust tubes to hook the inlet line up to. I have already take the top of the pump off to RTV the seem together and add the air inlet. The goal was to make it as air tight as possible for when I want to have a closed system. From what I could find this 40 gallon pump moves 1.3L/min of air, but need to add a 1 way check valve to the inlet. I think the back pressure might be to much for this pump and its sucking and blowing excessively through the inlet side. 

The air leaves the pump into the bottom of the 16 cup container. I made plastic baffles that sort of cause the air to zigzag back and forth so it see more desiccant surface area I hope. Then at the top is a filter inside of the cheesecloth bag and finally an outlet tupe that goes to the breather line for now.

I wanted to be able to monitor the humidity so up with the filter is a Govee Humidity sensor.

The ice thing about the Govee is it tracks temperature and humidity so I know how the system is doing and when it needs recharged. Right now everything is brand new and its holding it below 3% humidity!!

43 Engine Installation 1 Hours

FWF Section 44 Spinner and Propeller

RV14 Build May 21

Spinner and Propeller

Front and rear bulkhead are installed. I marked them with an X to keep there orientation after drilling the spinner.

I measured the drilling line and used the pre marked location on the spinner for the rear bulkhead, for the front I put magnets inside and used magnets to locate the drill location on the outside.

Made a small cross under the magnet and drilled hoping for the best. Some of my underside magnets had moved and my drill holes were a little off. To help this not be a problem I drill with a 3/32 first, then make sure I find the hole and then drill with #30. This way any off center drilling will be taken up by the #30 hole or the #19 hole later when drilling for a #8 screw.

All the #30 holes drilled.

Final drilled the #19 for the #8 screws.

Marking the prop gap filler.

After cutting out the prop gap filler I didn't like the fit or my cut lines.

So I decided to lay up a panel of fiberglass on the spinner to make a new prop gap filler. I put down packing tape and then waxed the tape. Using the spinner as a mold. The spinner is really thick so I went with 6 layers of cloth and figures I can sand down to match.

Making the prop gap filler baking plate.

Adding a slight bend to the backing plate.

Drilling the bulkheads for nutplates.

Spinner and Propeller 4.5 Hours

FWF Section 47 Baffle

RV14 Build March/April/May

Baffle

I knew I wanted to anodize the baffle it just took some time to find a local place. Once I did, I started to prep the parts. Cut, drilled, and bent everything I could find in the plans.

Using the template to make bends.

Did the same on this part. Trial fitting the whole time.

Stack to drilled and finish parts.

Drilling the air filter box

32 parts headed to the anodizer

Got the parts back and started to assemble. Some of the clearances are tight so riveting was harder than expected.

Coming together.

Applying RTV

RTV

Looks good!

Cutting the air filter box to final size.

RTV the screen in the alternator fresh air vent.

Just a cool pic.

Test fitting on the motor.

Finding and trimming he clearance issues.

Getting close.

Some more trimming.

Section 47 Baffle 15.0 Hours

FWF Section 45 Cowling: Bottom Cowl

RV14 Build April

Cowling

After waiting months I finally have the bottom cowl and I promptly made a mistake. You aren't supposed to trim the side of the cowl just yet, you wait until the top cowl is on to help with the alignment. Hopefully this doesn't mess me up in the future.

Taped the trim lines to make them easier to see when cutting.

Trimmed to the lines.

Just a cool shot I think

I spent WAY too long trying to get this to line up to drill 2 holes for clekos. Im not use to reading the instructions again after free wheeling the avionics.

Bottom Cowling 4.5 Hours

FWF Section 44 Spinner and Propeller

RV14 Build March/April/May 21

Spinner and Propeller

Starting off this section is fairly easy. You make the rear spinner bulkhead by match drilling and then removing the center of the plate. I used a jigsaw, drill bits, and sand paper of this.

Match drilling

Primed and assembled.

Next I made the cutouts on the spinner of the prop blades.

Cut and sanded. The cut lines came marked on the cowling

Installing the rear spinner bulkhead. You can see on the prop hub the bold closest to you doesn't have a recess around the bolt, this is what orients the prop on the craenkshaft.

I didn't get a picture but the prop can only go on 2 ways. Around the studs 2 of them don't have recessed areas and they match with the crankshaft. Working alone today to engine hoist to do the heavy lifting and alignment of the holes.

This prop wrench from AntiSplat is amazing!! Pricey but well worth it.

Prop is on. By myself this took about an hour to do. I did add 120lbs of sandbags to the luggage area to help with the balance.

Marking the distance between the rear bulkhead and ring gear. All mine are within 1mm

Pushed the spinner on. Marked where the front and rear bulkhead are, sanded out high spots, and added a layer of epoxy. I died it white so I could see where I was putting it better.

Section 44 Spinner and Propeller 7.0