Interior Topcaot

RV14 Build March 25 & 29

Interior Topcoat

I struggled to come up with a paint idea for the interior. I think I want a carbon fiber instrument panel so a lighter interior topcoat seemed smart. I have zero artistic ability so I hope this works with the final paint scheme.

I decided to go with Stewart Systems EcoCrylic Smoke Gray 2 part waterborne epoxy primer. I am really happy with how it sprayed out. I use a Concoure LT spray gun from Eastwood, it can run off 4.5 CFM. I set the pressure so when the trigger was depressed the air inlet pressure was 20psi, this was probably a little high, but it still sprayed well.

Started by masking off all the areas I dont want paint.

Firewall is masked.

Rear baggage area masked.

Moved the airplane into the paint booth.

Stewart Systems Paint. I didn't get a picture, but I used 400 grams of Part A. * I did mix up 50 more grams of color with the same ratios to finish the topcoating.

100 Grams of the flattener at a 4:1 to get a Satin finish.

125 Grams of Catalyst for a 4:1 of the 500grams of color and flattener.

55 Grams of Water, about half of the amount of catalyst used.

I did my best to fog coat and wet coat this on. As per Stewart Instructions. It was hard with the size of the gun and paint hopper and air hose limited access.

Finished product!

Couple smaller parts I sprayed. I also picked up 2 of these platforms to help stand on and get over the edge of the airplane.

Few days latter I installed the Upper FD Fuselage and Top coated all the areas that will be visible with the canopy up.

1 last part to install that I sprayed on its own.

Interior Topcoat 9 Man Hours 

Section 35 Upper FWD Fuselage

RV14 Build March 20, 29, 31, April 1 &2

Section 35 Upper FWD Fuselage

I needed to assemble the rest of the FWD Fuselage.

Admittedly for the seemingly little work this should have been it was kind of a pain. The top strip didn't want to line up and fluting was not going to help that.

Finally with clekoes, some fluting, and brute force I was able to line everything up.

 Installing the nut plates.

I had decided that I wanted the upper longeron top coated, so I painted before installing the Upper FWD Fuselage. After talking with Liz I decided to topcoat the parts of the upper fuselage that you will be able to see when the canopy is tipped up. So time to install it.

You can see the upper fuselage installed in the right of the picture already.

Pro Sealing the gab between the upper longeron, skin, and canopy frame seat.

I was a little annoyed about how Vans calls out pro-seal randomly during the build because these tubes are not cheap and I hate to only need a little and waste the rest. But this job uses 2/3 of a tube.

Liz helping mask with tape the areas I don't want to topcoat!

 Pop rivets installed.

After the cabin was top coated I continued on section 35. Working on the canopy emergency release.

I wasn't sure how to do this, I tried the band saw... Not great. Then I measured out the cuts on tape and used a dremel cutting wheel.

Tape on the tube after measuring, before the cut.

Cutting the tubes.

 Trimming and grinding the release pins. I used the Scotch-Brite wheel to grind.

Release mechanism test fit.

Measuring the cowling hinges.

 There are small canopy latch skin doublers, I over countersunk one and then decided I could fabricate my own replacement. The un-primed one is what I ended up with. After researching what this does, I dont think I made the 2 small openings square enough so I ordered a replacement.

Clamping the cowling hinge for drilling.

 I was a little more reckless with the side hinges when I drilled them and they are not perfectly straight. I for see this being a pain when Im trying to install and remove the cowling. So I took all the time I needed to get this one as straight as possible.

Counter sinking the upper longeron after match drilling the skins. The cage doesn't sit well so I help it back and kind of free handed it, tested with a rivet (you can see in the 3rd hole) finished with a hand tools when I was close.

Dimpled the rest of the sub structure.

Countersinking the hinges.

The curved hinge was tricky so I had to be a little creative on how to hold the hinge while countersinking.

Primed the canopy hinges.

Had a rattle can issue. It stopped spraying, but I could tell it still had paint, so i punched a hole in it to drain the paint out after the pressure left and use my detail gun to spray the paint with.

Didn't have all the pressure out yet. Oops

Got it all figured out and sprayed in the end.

Upper FWD Fuselage 19.0 Man Hours

Section 34 Flap Actuation System and OP 54 Position sensor

RV14 Build March 19, 20, 31

Section 34 Flap Actuation System

I didn't really have time to start to prime and was waiting on some replacement parts and tools to do the repair so I decide to start on the flaps. I started with flap position sensor. Twisted the wires, installed the mini molex pins and then into the molex connector.

Thats when I realized the plans labeled the pins backwards of the plug, they do point this out to you, but come on!

I ordered the pin removal tool from vans, and just incase, new molex pins and connectors.

 Installing the position sensor rod into the bracket.

Close up of the rod in a plastic tube used as a bushing.

Drilling the flap actuation rod, the template you need for this comes with the wing kit, so if your like me and are building the fuselage first then you'll need to order the alignment template.

After I deburred and primed the inside of the tubes I installed them into the airplane.

Bracket installed and bolted.

Drilling the safety wire hole on the flap motor arm

Hole is done!

 Installing the flap motor

Just need to wire up the flap position sensor and the motor!

Safety wired, torqued, and torque seal applied.

Flap Actuation and Position Sensor 6.0 Man Hours