Section 37 Roll Over Structure

RV14 Build March 3

Section 37 Roll Over Structure

In keeping with the idea that I don't know how much I want done before I topcoat I decided to build the roll over structure. I got it in my head that I was going to prep and prime this all in one session after working on the canopy frame. Man did I underestimate/not read the amount of work ahead.

That last of the blue!

You are suppose to use 4 rivets as guides to hold everything together and in the correct orientation then the assembly can be removed from the aircraft. Since I am going to prime the parts I didn't set the rivets but just used them to fill the holes and align the part and clekoed every other hole. Hopefully this doesn't burn me in the end.

Getting the roll bar straps installed to match drill.

Both roll bar straps installed, the back half of the assembly clekoed on, you align it the same way on the fuselage first. Also, the window shims are installed on the aft part of the roll bar.

Match drilling and re-clekoing. The plans talk about not letting the drilling ships get between the parts. I was worried so I opened everything up and cleaned them out, but then did't re clekoe every hole to the end and this proved to be a mistake. The upper roll bar straps moved alignment and the holes that I match drilled by the end where off...by alot. Almost snowman looking. Im going to test set an LP4-3 and see how it looks to decide if I want to drill it up to a larger size.

Finally have all the holes match drilled.

Got smart and put down paper to clean up the countersink shavings easier.

Countersinking the 6 holes in the upper forward part of the roll bar strap where the roll bar brace set into.

Countersinking the forward outer flange of the roll bar. On the curve the cutter would cut a little too deep, 4 micro clicks out seemed to work well to fit that. Since these are pulled CS4-4 Im not too worried about the over counter sinking.

Cut and debur these last few parts.

Prepping for prime with the etch.

Last few parts to etch

All the etching is done time to prime.

Finally after an 18hr day have everything primed!

Roll Over Structure 10.5 Hours

Section 35 Upper FWD Fuselage

RV14 Build March 1-3

Section 35 Upper FWD Fuselage

I have been struggling trying to decide how much I want installed and completed before I topcoat the cockpit. Most people follow vans instructions and do it after section 32 the baggage area. I decided I wanted to build everything and see how it looks with it mocked in place before I decide when to topcoat.

Since I am going with the quick build wing this is the last major section...I think...of deburring, prepping, and priming. Gathering the parts is getting easier because there is almost none left!

This tab isn't in the plans to cut off, but according to vans it is using the the manufacturing of the part and can be cut off.

I etched and washed the parts at home. Just more comfortable.

Finished etching.

Getting ready to spray

Starting to assemble, this is very straight forward. 

The plans called for a pop rivet on one of the nutplates, but i was able to get a squeezer on a solid rivet.

Back riveting the map box frame onto the subframe.

Dimpling and riveting on the nutplates.

Nutplate done, I noticed I missed a rivet looking at these pictures. Ill get it.

Testing the skin fit to the subpanel.

The plans have you flute the upper flanges as needed to get the holes to line up. I only had 2 tabs on each side that really needed it.

Riveting on the sub structures.

Marking the holes not to rivet yet.

Looking good.

I temporarily installed the canopy hinge brackets, its 2 gold parts between the ribs, the plans have you do this a little later. But Im hoping since access is easy on the bench do it now and it wont cause more work later.

Clekoed her into place

Even after getting this mocked up Im still not sure If i want to install it now and then topcoat or topcoat first...

Moving on to the canopy decks while I think about it. This was straight forward rivet it in and match drill.

After I matched drilled both side.

Now you counter sink the longeron and dimple the canopy decks.

You can see the skin keeps the cutter cage from resting on the longeron flush so I had to use the hand tool to countersink all those holes in the end.

Then I installed the instrument panel attach brackets.  Almost done with this section!!

Uper FWD Fuselage 20.5 Hours

Section 32 Baggage Area

RV14 Build February 22-23

Baggage Area

The baggage area is basically done excepts for the last few lines of solid rivets that I had some confusion on.

Getting ready to prime the parts.

Done with Priming

I started to countersink this and it looks symetrical, but it def is not! now a need to order a new part.

Not symmetrical

Starting to install the floors. I did a mix of trying to get into the cockpit and sit on the bulkheads and just leaning over the edge on a later to try and set all these pop rivets. For now Im going to leave of the seat back hinges till after top coating. The hinges are anodized metal already and I don't want the topcoat to interfere.

More progress.

Decided it would be easier to have the plans in the plane with me to see the rivet call outs.

One side is almost done.

Done!! I used the double bend 3/32 rivet set to get the rivets in the back of the floor boards.

The rivets that are highlighted are flush, except the plans don't have you dimple the baggage ride or rear wall??? Vans says a solid 470 rivet is fine or to drill them out to 1/8' and use the LP3-4 pop rivets.

Well this decision can wait for now, and Im out of 470-3-3 so Im going to pop rivet on the rest of the baggage area sides.

Baggage Area 9.0 Hours

Section 31 Fuel System

RV14 Build February 22 & March 31

Fuel System

Finally got the courage to bend the new tubing and flair it out. I bend most of the tubing at home since, well its more comfortable to work at home lol. I did for get the construction plans so I had to use a digital version. It wasn't too big of a setback since my bender radius is 1.5" and the plans use 1" so my bend weren't going to track the plans exactly.

The tube from the pump to the firewall has a weird double bend bend in it, I was trying to figure out how to lay that out and bend it with my tube bender.

 I accidentally installed one of the collars upside down, so now I cut it apart and re-bend. I was gald a reused as much of my first attempt at flaring tubing to make these new parts, it left lots of extra from the new 8' section I brought from vans.

Trying different ways to debur to get a clean flair. In the end I think a crap ton of oil to lubricate the flaring tool was the ticket.

Finally have all the lines in! Mine didn't line up perfectly to the fitting so some messaging of the tubes was required to take up the slack. You can buy pre-made lines after market...for $350ish that might have been worth it, but I wanted to give this a shot.

Fuel lines going into the selector, I still need to prime and the selector face will come off thats why the control knob is still removed.

Fuel lines are in and secure.

This last bend going down needed the most messaging to get the fittings to line up.

After I was done top coating I put the fuel selector back together 

Fuel System 6.5 Hours