Section 38: Canopy and Window, baggage window

RV14 Build September

Canopy and Window

This is a big section so I think Im going to break the post down into logical parts, this one will cover the baggage area window.

First you try to align the window on the frame so its even on both sides and clamp it.

The inside edge on the side is what I was really using to get it even.

Once you have it were you like it you start to measure the distance of the leading edge to find the smallest forward area in relation to the roll bar.

Note and mark the centerline

Mark the area with the smallest forward and measure it.

Cut relief notches in the back the same depth as the smallest forward area.

Remove the plastic in the mating area.

Special plastic bit for drilling the holes

Clekoing while drilling

Top is done, now for the sides.

You have to tap the roll bar for the #6 screws. They have you put a washer between the frame and canopy at the roll bar support to take up the gap.

Tapping the roll bar. It tells you to tap both the window and the roll bar, but you end up final drilling the window later. I think it might just be to make sure the holes you tap are aligned with the holes you drilled.

After tightening I had a few gaps in the window on the roll bar. Not sure what I could have done differently about it.

This hole you cant get to with a squeezer to dimple. You also break this edge down with the seamer after you drill, but debore you dimple.

Luckily I had this screw dimpler from before and it worked great! Love having tools when you need them, I mean what a feeling lol

Next you tape the leading edge and start to sand and fit and sand and fit.

Made a #6 dimple from scrap as a tool to check the countersink depth.

Almost done, just need to install the lower screws.

Looking Good!

Just when I thought I was done I had noticed I had interference with 2 rivets on the fastback, Used the dremel to notch out the window for these. One on each side of the roll bar brace.

Canopy and Window, Baggage Window 14.5 Hours

Finishing Kit Inventory

RV14 Build September

Finishing Kit Inventory 

The Finishing kit is hear!

Shop is starting to get a little tight! *This becomes a big problem later

For now its like Christmas

I thought the canopy was scratched, but its just the protective plastic.

All the counting begins again.

I wanted to get my work bench back from under the plane so I used the shipping crate to hold the build for now and it actually works really well.

Getting parts ready to wowk on

Everything is counted and stored away.

Finishing kit Inventory 6.0 Man hours 

Section 24 Wing Tip

 

RV14 Build August

Wing Tip 

The wing tips were fairly easy, I was nervous about them after my not great job on the elevator tips.

First thing you do is trim the edges to 1/2" and make cut outs for rivet heads.

Then you strap the tip to the wing with good pressure to seat the tip and you match drill.

I also used clamps to align the trailing edge.

Then you match drill.

After you drill I drilled the nutplate holes, I should have bought another jig for #6 nutplates, but I did it per the plans and use a nutplate as a guide. Problem is after a few holes the drill bit starts to enlarge the nutplate holes.

These nutplates were a little different becuase the surface beneath them isn't flat. I twisted the nutplate to match the surface in an attempt to keep the thread perpendicular with the outside surface.

I noticed while i was drilling and the tips were clamped that they are a little long.

I was worried about trimming them and having the sides seperate like what happened with the elevator fairings so I built up the inside with 2 layers of fiber and some flox.

Next I started to work on the the nav light covers. These took awhile. Lots of fitting and cutting. I never did find a great tool to cut these with.

I did a big rough cut then traced the cut line and proceed to do more and more trimming till i liked the fit.

Final fit. 1 side is nice and tight, but when i drilled the hole for the nut plate on the other side it pushes the lense forward and off the fairing. Im guessing the wind will get under that and rip the whole thing off. Ill need to remake this most likely or build up the fairing to fit.

Drilling the holes for the Nav lights themselves was simple.

Nav lights work and so does my wiring from the wing root out!

Last thing I did was the trailing edge metal supports. This one one not super happy with, I think I should have pushed it further aft into the trailing edge before drilling. It deforms the fiberglass a bit at the tip, but nothing a good body work can't fix.

Section 24 Wing Tip 15.5 Man Hours

Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins

RV14 Build August

Bottom Wing Skins

I did things a little different and did 21-23 before putting on the bottom wing skins. This was the first time Matt and I had team riveted in a while and it took us some time to get our feet under us again. The access for the person with the bucking bar isn't great so there was more than a few rivets drilled out.

Measuring and match drilling the J stiffeners. I used the inboard J stiffeners edge to rivet hole center and edge to rib distance to figure out where I wanted to draw my drill line. I then marked it down the length of the stiffener. I measured the outboard hole edge distance and drilled it.

Then I clekoed that hole and lined the drill line up through the holes in the skin and drilled and clekoed.

Finally installed it on the wing and match drilled the 2 J stiffeners together. 

Clekoing up the skin and checking alignment I noticed the outboard forward edge of the skin overlapped by 1/32 on the other skin. When I measured the skin to rivet hole distance I found the already instaleld skin had a slight angle to it.

So I filed the other skin to match.

Next I install the flap gap fairing. On the quickbuild wing they have you use pop rivets to the spar, but I decided to switch back to driven rivets when I had access. No real reason, they have the same shear strength.

Cherry max rivets in the drag link bracket.

The rivets closest to the inboard aileron service bulletin was too close to drive so I used a cherry max pop rivet here too. 

After completing through section 23 I decide it was time to rivet.

The plans have you start around the flap hinge.

Since the wing was a quickbuild one of the first steps in the build is to match drill the J stiffeners using the spar as a template doesn't get done. You have to measure and then use the skin as a template. I was 1/64 off on my measuring/ drilling and had a little interference on the left wing skin outboard J stiffener.

I used my iphone endoscope to check before riveting.

After I get in there with the dremel, some embry cloth, and a little SEM primer i was back in business.

The second skin went on with much less issues overall. I did have 1 rivet the a snowmaned when drilling out and it was basically the size of a #30 drill hole now. I decided to make my own oops rivet and took a 4-4 and put the shop end in my drill and held the manufactured end against the scotch brite wheel while both were spinning to reduce the head diameter to a 3 head size, then ground the head down to remove the fap lip and I was back in business again. Didn't get any pictures of this sadly.

Installed the nutplates.

Skin is on!

Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins 36.0 Man Hours