RV14 Build August
Bottom Wing Skins
I did things a little different and did 21-23 before putting on the bottom wing skins. This was the first time Matt and I had team riveted in a while and it took us some time to get our feet under us again. The access for the person with the bucking bar isn't great so there was more than a few rivets drilled out.
Measuring and match drilling the J stiffeners. I used the inboard J stiffeners edge to rivet hole center and edge to rib distance to figure out where I wanted to draw my drill line. I then marked it down the length of the stiffener. I measured the outboard hole edge distance and drilled it.
Clekoing up the skin and checking alignment I noticed the outboard forward edge of the skin overlapped by 1/32 on the other skin. When I measured the skin to rivet hole distance I found the already instaleld skin had a slight angle to it.
So I filed the other skin to match.
Next I install the flap gap fairing. On the quickbuild wing they have you use pop rivets to the spar, but I decided to switch back to driven rivets when I had access. No real reason, they have the same shear strength.
Cherry max rivets in the drag link bracket.
The rivets closest to the inboard aileron service bulletin was too close to drive so I used a cherry max pop rivet here too.
After completing through section 23 I decide it was time to rivet.
The plans have you start around the flap hinge.
Since the wing was a quickbuild one of the first steps in the build is to match drill the J stiffeners using the spar as a template doesn't get done. You have to measure and then use the skin as a template. I was 1/64 off on my measuring/ drilling and had a little interference on the left wing skin outboard J stiffener.
I used my iphone endoscope to check before riveting.
After I get in there with the dremel, some embry cloth, and a little SEM primer i was back in business.
The second skin went on with much less issues overall. I did have 1 rivet the a snowmaned when drilling out and it was basically the size of a #30 drill hole now. I decided to make my own oops rivet and took a 4-4 and put the shop end in my drill and held the manufactured end against the scotch brite wheel while both were spinning to reduce the head diameter to a 3 head size, then ground the head down to remove the fap lip and I was back in business again. Didn't get any pictures of this sadly.
Installed the nutplates.
Skin is on!
Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins 36.0 Man Hours
No comments:
Post a Comment