Section 40B : Tail Dragger Landing Gear & Engine Mount

RV14 Build September

Landing Gear and Engine Mount

Its about to look like a taildragger! At first i didn't have the engine mount Vans has issues getting them produced so I did everything I could without it and then mounted it when it showed up.

First thing was to assembly the wheels

Just to I remember in the future when I need to buy new ones.

The plans have you put the stem near the red dot on the tire for balance issues.

I removed the stem valve so I could inflate and deflate the tube numerous times to help it shift and seat around the inside of the tire. You can also see the tire has white powder on it, that's the talcum I used inside to help with chafing.

Next I cleaned the bearing of all the shipping grease and re packed them with Moble 28

Wheels are done for now.

Next I started on the tail wheel assembly. Mostly just had to prime the parts.

Then put them together per the plans.

Almost finished but the bolt that holds the tailwheel on is too short. I even tried going with smaller washers but I still couldn't get the threads to show. Vans sent a longer bolt to replace it.

New replacement bolt.

The plans have you make drift pins to help align the gear legs and the tail spring for final drilling. I ordered steel drill rods from McMaster to fabricate these.

Here you can see the wood block that you make to help clamp the part together after you center it. I used a regular punch for this picture, but the drift pins above is what I really used to center and final drill. For the final drilling I used a reamer rather than a drill bit.

For the first ones I was nervous to make sure the reamer would work and cut straight so I did it by hand. In the end I used me drill for most of the others.

Torque the nut to final setting, before you do this you do add a little bit of silicone around the washers to make this end water tight.

Next I had to repeat the process on the tail spring. I had primed the inside of the spring mount, that proved to be a problem now and had to sand out what I could to get the tail spring to fit in. The tape is just a visual so I would stop walking into it lol.

Drift pin installed before reaming.

Bolt is in and torqued. I think this is where you would but the tail tie down ring, but i'm not sure so a close tolerance bolt it is for now. You can tell its close tolerance by the shape of the bolt head.

Last thing I could do is install bolts into the spare where the main gear would mount on a tricycle gear. The AN5 were too short to have threads showing to I replaced them, even though the nuts were jam nut size not shear so I don't think they are structural. 

I tried to install the fittings for the brake caliper and messed up the threads. There must be a better wrench size for this. The second one was better, I just didn't try to tighten it as far, hopefully they dont leak.

The engine mount has arrived!

Was able to get it on the plane with relative ease, which was a surprise. Im always amazed at how well thing line up.

The bolt lengths on the bottom outside were a little short so I switch both washers to smaller ones. The top bolt only 1 washer needed switched out.

The fat washer.

Drift pin installed before reaming.

Gera leg clamped in place before reaming. really this is after because I forgot to take the picture.

Close tolerance bolt installed and torqued.

The axles are on and checking toe in and out.

I used feeler gauges to find the gap.

.027 and .025 so both sides within the tolerance, no shims needed!

Wheels are installed. The hole for the cotter pin was so tight it was impossible to get it in. It seems like its a 1/8" so I opened it up to #30 and that works much better. Im not sure about the proper tightness of the axle nut though. At one cotter hole there is the slightest amount of play side to side in the wheel at the next there is definite friction on the rotation of the wheel. Asked Vans what is more important, still waiting on an answer.

Brake caliper is installed.

Man does she stand tall!

That basically rounds out the gear. I'm ordering brake leg hoses from aircraft specialty which the next section of the plans has you fabricate. I'll update the post when I install those.

Tail Dragger Gear & Engine Mount 16.5 hours

Section 38: Canopy and Window, Fiberglass Work

RV14 Build October

Canopy and Window

There is a video series for this on youtube that Vans did. I would watch it. Several times, but still read the plans. The plans just make more sense after watching the video.

First you install the canopy clips where needed. As I would clamp things down other areas popped up, so I used more. Before I did the clips I sanded the crap out of the 2" area between the tape.

Then mix up a thick mix of resin and microballoons. Thick so i wont run at all when tipped. All you making is a filler. So all the micro makes it light.

This you add the mico to the void between the canopy and frame. I did this with the frame on the airplane to ensure the frame wasn't twisted or sitting strange.

After it cures the next day you sand. This is basically the process. Put stuff on sand it down and repeat.

Once you like the contour you move on the the fiberglass. All you want to do it fill the void. All the other micro should be sanded off.

I used OSB for my fiberglass cutting table. It works really well.

I cut the strips according to the plan. The fame I made to hold the canopy level during this is getting used for something at least.

First thing I did, and not well enough, was put on some epoxy with the dye in it. This is for aesthetics so I don't see the fiberglass work through from the inside. I should have painted the inside black in this area to be sure. Then I added the first layers of fiberglass also with the black resin dye. You let this start to cure up sothe resin doesn't get draw up into the next layers and dilute the color, which is what happened to me.

Keep adding fiberglass cloth. After the first pieces you start with the thinnest and work your way out as needed. THis is more of an art.

Then finally you put on the largest ones to cover and remove the masking tape that is covering the electrical tape.

Put some peel-ply on and go home for the night.

The peel ply drew out most of the excess resin.

I took the frame off the airplane for sanding. Really glad I did. This is a messy job.

Sanded to the shape I wanted. I would use colored electrical tape, it would have made it easier to see when I sanded to the edge.

Then I put on some black epoxy trying to get it dye back out and to fill pin holes.

Sanded it again, here is the tool you use to check the radius.

I had some low spot so i filled the whole things with micro.

My buddy Tim 3D printed me this sanding block, It works great for making sure the radius is correct. Before I did that previous layer of micro I should have removed 1 layer of the electrical tape. Adding filler and sanding back down to the tape line, several times. Then removing the a tape layer and sanding down to the new tape thickness essentially sanded off all the layers I had added and contoured. It was good practice but wasted effort.

The filler I use.

Filling the last low spot.

When I cleared it in, I used a little micro to fill the stubborn low spot.

Hopefully last layer of epoxy before final sanding for high build primer.

Hopefully on the last fill and sand. I removed the bottom tape line so when I sand I will be feathering into the metal for a seamless finish. You can see the green is lightweight body filler I used to fill a low spot. It just cures faster and keeps things moving along.

Finally happy with the contour and ready to high build primer. I used this one from eastwood and it was great. I should have bought the gallon and a needle for my HVLP gun to to the rest of the fiberglass work with.

Sprays on well and self levels. This first coat also showed the transition from the fiberglass to the metal was noticeable so I worked it with some filler and re sprayed.

Looks much better the second time.

Looks good.

The only scratches I got on the glass was where I was dumb and tried to feather the top edge after I removed the tape. Over all very happy with this and so glad its done.

Last thing to do was topcoat the rivets and the guide pins.

Section 38 Canopy and Window, Fiberglass Work 28.5 Hours