Section 38: Canopy and Window, Fiberglass Work

RV14 Build October

Canopy and Window

There is a video series for this on youtube that Vans did. I would watch it. Several times, but still read the plans. The plans just make more sense after watching the video.

First you install the canopy clips where needed. As I would clamp things down other areas popped up, so I used more. Before I did the clips I sanded the crap out of the 2" area between the tape.

Then mix up a thick mix of resin and microballoons. Thick so i wont run at all when tipped. All you making is a filler. So all the micro makes it light.

This you add the mico to the void between the canopy and frame. I did this with the frame on the airplane to ensure the frame wasn't twisted or sitting strange.

After it cures the next day you sand. This is basically the process. Put stuff on sand it down and repeat.

Once you like the contour you move on the the fiberglass. All you want to do it fill the void. All the other micro should be sanded off.

I used OSB for my fiberglass cutting table. It works really well.

I cut the strips according to the plan. The fame I made to hold the canopy level during this is getting used for something at least.

First thing I did, and not well enough, was put on some epoxy with the dye in it. This is for aesthetics so I don't see the fiberglass work through from the inside. I should have painted the inside black in this area to be sure. Then I added the first layers of fiberglass also with the black resin dye. You let this start to cure up sothe resin doesn't get draw up into the next layers and dilute the color, which is what happened to me.

Keep adding fiberglass cloth. After the first pieces you start with the thinnest and work your way out as needed. THis is more of an art.

Then finally you put on the largest ones to cover and remove the masking tape that is covering the electrical tape.

Put some peel-ply on and go home for the night.

The peel ply drew out most of the excess resin.

I took the frame off the airplane for sanding. Really glad I did. This is a messy job.

Sanded to the shape I wanted. I would use colored electrical tape, it would have made it easier to see when I sanded to the edge.

Then I put on some black epoxy trying to get it dye back out and to fill pin holes.

Sanded it again, here is the tool you use to check the radius.

I had some low spot so i filled the whole things with micro.

My buddy Tim 3D printed me this sanding block, It works great for making sure the radius is correct. Before I did that previous layer of micro I should have removed 1 layer of the electrical tape. Adding filler and sanding back down to the tape line, several times. Then removing the a tape layer and sanding down to the new tape thickness essentially sanded off all the layers I had added and contoured. It was good practice but wasted effort.

The filler I use.

Filling the last low spot.

When I cleared it in, I used a little micro to fill the stubborn low spot.

Hopefully last layer of epoxy before final sanding for high build primer.

Hopefully on the last fill and sand. I removed the bottom tape line so when I sand I will be feathering into the metal for a seamless finish. You can see the green is lightweight body filler I used to fill a low spot. It just cures faster and keeps things moving along.

Finally happy with the contour and ready to high build primer. I used this one from eastwood and it was great. I should have bought the gallon and a needle for my HVLP gun to to the rest of the fiberglass work with.

Sprays on well and self levels. This first coat also showed the transition from the fiberglass to the metal was noticeable so I worked it with some filler and re sprayed.

Looks much better the second time.

Looks good.

The only scratches I got on the glass was where I was dumb and tried to feather the top edge after I removed the tape. Over all very happy with this and so glad its done.

Last thing to do was topcoat the rivets and the guide pins.

Section 38 Canopy and Window, Fiberglass Work 28.5 Hours