Section 33 Rudder & Brake System

RV14 Build March 18, 19, 29, 31, & April 10

Section 33 Rudder & Brake System

Very Excite for this post! I had been trying hard to find someone in Chicago or anywhere who would anodize my rudder pedals. Unfortunately, no one will do small one off work like this....Until one of my best friends said that his father in law ran a metal finishing company!!!! Thank you Bill and thank you Joel!

Here are the pedals back from Joel. I spent time prepping the pedals by sanding with red scotch-brite to get a uniformed appearance, but the brackets looks fine so I left them alone. This affected how well the metal took the color as you can see a slight difference. After looking at it I really like the darker more faded look of the pedals.

Whole bunch of new things in the mail today.

I only had the pedals and bracket that would easily been seen anodized, so I wasn't sure what color to make the substructure parts. Red or black. After spraying test pieces I settled on the black.

 Cutting spacers.

 Riveting on the brackets and sub structure.

Trying to keep the orientation correct proved to be challenging for my brain this day.

Drilled out and re-riveted.

Pedals are together.

Installing on the frame. Getting the orientation here correct was a little challenging too. Just took some time, to understand how the plans have them layed out.

Installing the fluid fittings.

Close up of the pedal with brake actuator. I taped off the fluid fitting to keep them clean until the install.

Finished sub assembly. I wouldn't figure this out until later during the install, but now knowing looking at the pedals the left is tilted back and the right tilted forward. Turns out the front bar with the right pedal in the picture needs to be the rear.

Installing into the airplane. Again you can see how the pedals are tilted unevenly. This is about when I figured it out and flipped them.

Making brake lines. First time doing this! The plans have you use boiling water to heat the ends to aid in assembly, I carefully used a heat gun.

After flipping the bars, Liz and I started to work on the fluid lines.

Didn't get a good photo of it, but the fittings that go into the firewall bracket have a sleeve build into them. I didn't know this and had to remove the small brass inert after installing it, pain in the ass, to move the fitting on the tube to the correct location.

Brake lines installed, and pedals looking much better in there proper location. Just need to pull the rudder cables through and hook everything up.

Little brass fitting that goes into the tube, Liz lost in, but then she completely redeemed herself and found it!

After I installed the pedals I went to attach the rudder cable and this is when I found out I put it in backwards!

To flip the cable around I tied a rope to the end and pulled the cable through so the line would be through all the grommets to pull the cable back through the correct way.

I dont have any more of the AACQ4-4 rivets or the FN416P washers, so I have to order hardware.

The hardware in the front mount it different? Interesting.

I re-primed the attach brackets

The hardware came in and I reinstalled the plastic wire guides.

Installing the wires to the pedals. In hindsight I should have waited on the cotter pin until I have the ridder on and seats in to adjust the pedals.

I haven't put on the front instrument panel and the access to move around the cabin is much better, glad I have waited on this.

Pedals are connected to the cables!

Rudder & Brake System 15.0 Man Hours

Section 37 Roll Over Structure

RV14 Build March 17, 18 & 26

Section 37 Roll Over Structure

Now that I am done priming time to assemble the Roll over structure. They have you start by aligning the frames on the airplane inserting 4 rivets to hold to orientation.

Rivet the center section.

Rivet on the bands.

I used clamps on the radius to remove and gab in the bar straps and the roll over bar.

 Installing the the busing and doublers for the canopy latching pin on the rear of the roll over bar.

Match drilling the from doublers.

Everything clekoed on to hold the alignment when drilling.

Install the pop rivets. From a previous post I was worried about the hole shape in the support straps on the inside of the roll over structure of these bottom 3 holes. But the are sandwich between the bar and the mounting bracket so it wasn't an issue.

Finished install.

Roll Over structure 8.0 Man Hours

Wing Cradle

RV14 Build March 17

Quick Build Wing

After we messed up the flange we decide to stop working on the airplane because it clearly was one of those days. But I figured we couldn't bungle a wing cradle too bad so we decided to build that.

I more or less copied Tims wing cradle design.

I found on Aertoons website what the quickbuild look like and modified the cradle by putting carpet on both sides so the wing spar has less risk of falling off the cradle moving from the truck to the shop.

Vans did come out with quick build wing instructions on the website now with pictures it looks like, although currently its only 2 pages long, so more to come I would think.

Basic dimensions.

They are 9.5' long** after looking at Shawn's Im going to shorten them to 8.5'

The vertical are 26"

The horizontal are 28"

The carpet is 24"

Wing Cradle 2.0 Man Hours

Section 32 Baggage Area Finish mistake and repair

RV14 Build March 17 & 25

Baggage Area

I received the replacement part prepped and primed it. When Matt and I started to install it we messed. I didn't have the bucking bar in the correct location, it was next to the rivet not on it, when we tried to set it. The location is tight and you are doing this by feel. Well it cracked the flange of the rib.

I emailed Vans and asked about stop drilling it, although i think the crack went into the rivet hole, and making a double between the 2 rivet holes. They said this would be sufficient for this area. I used the old part that was messed up already to get the rivet hole pattern and made the doubler from 2024-t3 .032.

I matched drilled the holes, this worked okay. I wanted to carry it out to 2 more rivet holes to help transfer the load.

I ground down the flange and deburred with cratex bits just incase the crack didn't got into the rivet hole. Its really hard to see things upside down through a mirror. Put a little self etching primer on.

The problem is the last hole on the left was dimpled and the doubler didn't lay flat so the doubler has a little bow in it, so it probably doesn't transfer the load but it can't hurt.

 Now that I repaired that time to finish this section. The flap motor brace and bracket.

 More of the flap motor bracket.

Section 32 6.5 Man Hours