Section 24 Wing Tip

 

RV14 Build August

Wing Tip 

The wing tips were fairly easy, I was nervous about them after my not great job on the elevator tips.

First thing you do is trim the edges to 1/2" and make cut outs for rivet heads.

Then you strap the tip to the wing with good pressure to seat the tip and you match drill.

I also used clamps to align the trailing edge.

Then you match drill.

After you drill I drilled the nutplate holes, I should have bought another jig for #6 nutplates, but I did it per the plans and use a nutplate as a guide. Problem is after a few holes the drill bit starts to enlarge the nutplate holes.

These nutplates were a little different becuase the surface beneath them isn't flat. I twisted the nutplate to match the surface in an attempt to keep the thread perpendicular with the outside surface.

I noticed while i was drilling and the tips were clamped that they are a little long.

I was worried about trimming them and having the sides seperate like what happened with the elevator fairings so I built up the inside with 2 layers of fiber and some flox.

Next I started to work on the the nav light covers. These took awhile. Lots of fitting and cutting. I never did find a great tool to cut these with.

I did a big rough cut then traced the cut line and proceed to do more and more trimming till i liked the fit.

Final fit. 1 side is nice and tight, but when i drilled the hole for the nut plate on the other side it pushes the lense forward and off the fairing. Im guessing the wind will get under that and rip the whole thing off. Ill need to remake this most likely or build up the fairing to fit.

Drilling the holes for the Nav lights themselves was simple.

Nav lights work and so does my wiring from the wing root out!

Last thing I did was the trailing edge metal supports. This one one not super happy with, I think I should have pushed it further aft into the trailing edge before drilling. It deforms the fiberglass a bit at the tip, but nothing a good body work can't fix.

Section 24 Wing Tip 15.5 Man Hours

Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins

RV14 Build August

Bottom Wing Skins

I did things a little different and did 21-23 before putting on the bottom wing skins. This was the first time Matt and I had team riveted in a while and it took us some time to get our feet under us again. The access for the person with the bucking bar isn't great so there was more than a few rivets drilled out.

Measuring and match drilling the J stiffeners. I used the inboard J stiffeners edge to rivet hole center and edge to rib distance to figure out where I wanted to draw my drill line. I then marked it down the length of the stiffener. I measured the outboard hole edge distance and drilled it.

Then I clekoed that hole and lined the drill line up through the holes in the skin and drilled and clekoed.

Finally installed it on the wing and match drilled the 2 J stiffeners together. 

Clekoing up the skin and checking alignment I noticed the outboard forward edge of the skin overlapped by 1/32 on the other skin. When I measured the skin to rivet hole distance I found the already instaleld skin had a slight angle to it.

So I filed the other skin to match.

Next I install the flap gap fairing. On the quickbuild wing they have you use pop rivets to the spar, but I decided to switch back to driven rivets when I had access. No real reason, they have the same shear strength.

Cherry max rivets in the drag link bracket.

The rivets closest to the inboard aileron service bulletin was too close to drive so I used a cherry max pop rivet here too. 

After completing through section 23 I decide it was time to rivet.

The plans have you start around the flap hinge.

Since the wing was a quickbuild one of the first steps in the build is to match drill the J stiffeners using the spar as a template doesn't get done. You have to measure and then use the skin as a template. I was 1/64 off on my measuring/ drilling and had a little interference on the left wing skin outboard J stiffener.

I used my iphone endoscope to check before riveting.

After I get in there with the dremel, some embry cloth, and a little SEM primer i was back in business.

The second skin went on with much less issues overall. I did have 1 rivet the a snowmaned when drilling out and it was basically the size of a #30 drill hole now. I decided to make my own oops rivet and took a 4-4 and put the shop end in my drill and held the manufactured end against the scotch brite wheel while both were spinning to reduce the head diameter to a 3 head size, then ground the head down to remove the fap lip and I was back in business again. Didn't get any pictures of this sadly.

Installed the nutplates.

Skin is on!

Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins 36.0 Man Hours

Section 23 Aileron Actuation

 

RV14 Build August

Aileron Actuation 

I did things a little different and did 21-23 before putting on the bottom wing skins. Im really glad I did this and hte access issues to rivet the skin on were minimal. Started in the beginning of the get making the pushrods and priming.

I tired to get smarter this time and made uniques marks on each tube to I would line the correct holes and parts back up after deburring.

Matt helped mark out and drill the aileron push rods. There was a decent amount of work to get the rod ends to fit inside the tubes i.e. some sanding

We put the rod end in the drill and used embry cloth to take it down evenly.

Next I assembled and drilled the torque tubes.

Primed the middle tube after drilling.

Primed the inside of the torque tube collars. I had too much primer in here or on the center tube because the fit after was TIGHT. I didn't realize this was going to be an issue, but installing these later you need the center tube to be able to travel up and down inside the collars to get the assembly installed.

Getting ready to final drill.

Final drilling with the drill press to get a even straight hole for the bolts.

Time to install the push rods. I was lucky and that my measurements where spot on for the long rods.

The shorter aileron push rods proved to be a little off and needed several fittings on and off to get it right. view of the aileron pushrod going through the aft spar.

Mounted the flaps.

Mounted the ailerons and right away on both sides I had an interference issue. I emailed vans and they recommended installing an extra washer as a spacer.

I also noticed the outboard aileron mounting brackets were both bent inward a bit. So a little pressure on these to straighten them out.

Test fitting with the extra washer and the clearance issue is no more!

Installing the pushrod and taking it off and installing it about 10 times to get the correct length. When I went to torque the bolt holding the inboard aileron mount I managed to WAY over do it and strip the threads and spend the next hour getting the bad bolt out and replacing it....Yeah this is fun lol

Using the aileron template to check both pushrods are the correct length. You start with the long one and measure the inboard rod end bearing distance from the rib to check it with the alignment plate in place. For the aileron you check with another alignment plate on the outboard of the aileron. 

After getting all the rod ends to a distance that I feel it correct I torqued them to spec.

Okay no more jumping ahead time to rivet on the bottom skin!

Section 23 Aileron Actuation 31.5 Man Hours